Fading Feathers - Blown away by Mark Fast S/S 2011

Something quite spectacular is in the air when a collection manages to not only astound you with its immense beauty, but also touch you with the inspiration that took place before the designs were even put to paper. I didn't need to read the Press Release for the Mark Fast S/S 2011 catwalk show - his story was so well told that it felt like I was there at the inception of his initial idea, like when you get to the plot twist in a film and they play the scenes backwards to the beginning to say "See! You should have known he was the killer all along!" No foreshadowing, no fancy rain forest scenes, no birds chirping in the background - Just the clothes. (Please don't get me wrong in this I love elaborate shows too!)  

I knew his story began with fantastical colourful birds in a forest of lush and brilliant foliage as models (of varying sizes, including negative 7.... !) passed in gorgeous shades of turquoise, yellow, orange and peach; and then something happened to change this (I did read the press release later and found out that it was acid rain...) You could literally see the colours drain slowly down the pieces of the collection as the models passed and each became more black/white and more stark. Masses of fringe fell from the arms and middles and bottoms of many of his signature tight body hugging creations that prompted such dazzling movement I couldn't look away. I have included a few blurry pictures on here as I think it helps to capture the haze of movement on the wearer. One dress had fringing placed heavily on the "She Flower ; )" area of the dress which initially I thought questionable but it was layered by colour and when it shifted as the model walked it had remarkable effect. 

              

     


Signature Mark Fast holes abound as it looked like the acid rain almost disintegrated (though neatly and precisely...) the fabric away. Crystals (designed by Mark Fast for Swarovski) formed on the dresses in defiance of the chemical change and all that remained were birds of black and white (with the red soles of the collaborative platform shoe wonderfullness of Fast and Christian Louboutin).

                    

The final garment was a long white floor length gown with Fast style open knit along the spine and arms and with long fringe falling from just below the bottom as well as hanging from the forearm. The lights were lowered as the model walked and she stood for a long time at the end of the catwalk. Defiant.You can strip her of all of the colour and vibrancy that can be seen with the naked eye, but you can't take away the natural beauty and strength that is inside of a woman - even without the fancy things... I liked this message. I love fashion (and obviously so does Mark Fast!) but it is interesting to see that when you strip it all away (be it with acid rain or a recession or whatever life throws your way) that all you are left with at the end of the day is yourself, so you better be damn happy with who you are and be ready to take on the world in spite of it all!

                            

I don't think I breathed for the shows entire duration as I felt light headed stumbling out into the mid-day London sun. I was not expecting to attend the show so was dressed rather like a tramp. Half of my hair had fallen out, my eye make-up was running in the heat, I was wearing my favourite old Adidas trainers for goodness sake - hardly attire fit for the front row at LFW! This made me smile however as I bounced along to the tube. I may have looked like something from the "what not to wear" section of Heat magazine - but I felt literally on top of the world.

Thanks Mr Fast! I am cheers-ing you with a Kokanee and Clam as we speak! (Sorry folks, you have to be from the Canadian Prairies to understand....)

Links: http://www.markfast.net/home

Fitting Finale to LFW - Romina Karamanea

I really felt for Romina Karamanea on the closing day of LFW(and her show helpers - like Fashion for Show model Liis Tiisvelt who we bumped into). She was patiently trying to control the mobs of people waving their tickets and pushing to get in. The Freemasons who rent out their hall for use during LFW were having a meeting inside and wouldn't allow entrance to the building until they had all exited! Talk about DIVA's! So the show was substantially delayed and as it was the final show of LFW, we were all line-up and fake smiled out and our blisters had blisters from ridiculous shoes and we wanted to go home and order a take away and read the latest copy of Another... I shook my head and said to Mel that "it is unfortunate as everyone's expectations will be higher from having to wait and it isn't her fault - people may start leaving!" But no one did, and I expect that it is because we were all equally die hard fans and anxious to see what gems Ms Karamanea had to offer us this season.

I need not have worried because the room was more packed than any other show we had seen at VFS all season, and the wait only seemed to amplify the excitement as the lights lowered the base swelled and the show began.

Nature inspired prints (almost like the veins running through leaves) in white, blue and red were plentiful as well as structured asymmetrical white dresses, trenches and skirts. Many of these were draped, twisted and stitched closely with sheer coloured sashes, creating an extremely appealing texture and dimension to the garments. Ruched stretch belts were interestingly added through one half of some of the pieces, almost dividing the wearer in two. Expertly cut loose white collared shirts also extended to dresses. 

    

                               

There was a sporty element to the collection which I coveted. Biker shorts, satchels, high necked tight cropped mid sleeved tops, hooded silk cover up style dresses with extended backs, shiny leather like vinyl tops and swimsuits and racer backs throughout which are my favourite kind of backs.... (along with backless backs which there was plenty of too!)! There was also men's swimwear and casual wear with swim shorts in the same nature inspired prints, shorts and white beach style shirts.

                             
                                


Throughout the show Romina sent out the big guns with breezy silk outfits, like a royal blue button-up jumpsuit with legs so wide it almost looked like a dress, a printed red dress with exaggerated kimono like sleeves and a stunning long red silk, blow miles out behind you in the breeze, number which unfortunately we were too busy drooling over to get a good shot of... I will keep my eyes peeled and post one if I can find! I had about 10 favourites from this collection, including black and white printed biker shorts (and the loose trousers in the same print) and short racer back top and a sheer black and white sleeveless printed wrap over a sleeveless shirt dress tied with a simple grey sash. The model looked as though she was wrapped in large leaves and her hands in her packets looked amazing through the sheer fabric!

                 

A fitting end to London Fashion Week S/S 2011. Romina had everything against her with a tired and cranky crowd (me included) and her ability to wow us from the first look despite this is a testament to her talent and her innovative attention grabbing work. It is these things that will ensure her longevity and success in the Fashion Weeks of years to come.

Links: http://www.rominakaramanea.com/

Flora's Illuminate - Hermione de Paula S/S 2011

We were slightly late to be seated for Hermione de Paula's show due to the over running of the Swedish School of Textiles presentation downstairs at the Freemason's Hall at Vauxhalls Fashion Scout. We were happy to stand though as the building was on fire with all of the catwalk lights burning for 6 days straight! We were unfashionably "glistening" and elbowed our way to the front of the standing crowd so we could try to get a few good shots - our angle and positioning didn't serve us well and we couldn't capture the true beauty of the clothes - visit Hermione's website so you can lust over the lot! Her lines are currently being stocked at Browns so make your wish lists for S/S 2011!

This collection reminded me of the Liv Tyler film Stealing Beauty which tells the story of the sexual awakening of a young woman in Italy. The lead character is virtuous as she doesn't realise the true power of her own sexuality, beauty and fortitude, which makes her even more magnetic to those around her. de Paula's collection reflects this strength, sassyness and romantic purity perfectly in her latest collection which she remarks was inspired by Flora - The Goddess of Flowers and her desire to push away her chaste youth and welcome her corporeal adult self.

Using florals as her language, de Paula paints the picture beautifully (literally) with hand painted prints and sheer fabrics on dresses, tops, play suits and jumpsuits pulling from the late 80's and early 90's for some of the silhouettes. Tie dyes, shredded denims and loose knits were tied in to show the young rebellion of her muse. Black, white, navy and light denim with touches of maroon, blush and rose. The garment order down the catwalk seemed to alternate between primadonna and principessa, showing the stages of girl to woman. (Sorry if Britney's terrible song just came into your head... It did mine and now it won't leave!)

                                

Congratulations Hermione de Paula, this is an exquisite collection which makes me nostalgic for my innocent youth, but also thrilled about all of the good bits that come with being a grown up.... ; )

Links: http://www.hermionedepaula.com/

http://www.brownsfashion.com/

Stellar Swedish Stitch-Up

I have had the pleasure of meeting several fabulous Swedes through my foray with fashion over the past year, the common thread among them all is a SICK work ethic, amazing attention to detail and an internal inability to produce anything less than their absolute best. As expected, these attributes were present in The Swedish School of Textiles catwalk show this London Fashion Week. The BA graduates showed varied designs born of inspiration such as Structure, Prepositions, Control and Painting Oneself Into a Corner. There were too many designers to go into each in detail so I will let you pick your own favourites!


                                 

Links: http://www.hb.se/