Deviancy at Fashion for Show

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Excitement started building for this years Fashion for Show (FfS) about 4 months ago when we heard there would be a 2nd instalment. This year, Pandora's Thoughts got more involved and I was able to help with the process from the beginning - which was amazing! Witnessing the production from stage to stage - beginning to end was astonishing. The amount of time, effort, blood spilled from needle pricked fingers, sweat from hours huddled over power tools, knitting and sewing machines and handmade looms, tears shed over shops running out of correct fabrics and the venue being moved just days before because of an electrical fault.

The bedrooms, kitchens, gardens, stairwells and universities of the designers have been a constant hub of burning activity, questions, suggestions and laughs, which was the whole purpose of creating the collective in the first place says Lisette Norrby, FfS's creator. To work together, push, support each other and encourage one another to reach maximum potential. The effect of this open (almost socialist) nature could further be seen by the HUGE amount of people across several industries who freely gave their time to volunteer and help ensure the show happened (us included!). No one could fail to be inspired by their outlook, ability, creativity and vision. Plus, none of the individual designers were out for themselves - rare in today's competitive fashion industry.

The show titled "The Deviant" displayed each designers view on that which deviates from the norms of society, and here are the results....

Inspired by cheesy 90's rap videos and utilising compelling dying and quilting techniques, Julia Bjorkeheims collection is bold and almost tribal. More the tribe of east end trendsetters than something amazonian. Julia's collection was a favourite of quite a few people standing around us, as we heard their hushed murmurs! We also thought her heavily tattooed model looked great in her clothes and think he should permanently dye his hair grey. Salt and pepper hair is hot - NICE WORK SACO! 

Next was Timothy Forges. When I first saw Tim working on his handmade loom (nails hammered into a disused wardrobe door!! Ingenuity much?) I was amazed. I think Tim's aesthetic is level with designers filling tents at Fashion Week. This collection oozes earthy sex appeal, a bit of back, shoulder, dropped armhole - paired with modestly long skirts in hues of ground and nature (deep and surface). Despite its modern and relevant silhouette this collection manages to encapsulate that french poise so many of us j'adore. I can't choose a favourite piece, I absolutely - without apology for my  indecision - love them all.


Audrey Jade Littman followed with her collection of pink, brown, yellow and blue. This menswear collection boasts romantic capes, torn raw edged sheer fabrics and a unique colour palette that made each piece stand out against its pairing and still work well together!! It is a difficult feat to create such individual separates that also work when put together and Audrey does this extremely well. My favourite look was a brown boat necked jumper over a white collared shirt and bright yellow trousers.


Then out floated the collection by knitwear virtuoso Magdalena Gustafsson. Magdalena is probably the most modest person I may have ever met and will cringe at that word, but to me it is true! Inspired by children photographed under water this collection is hauntingly beautiful and addresses her inspiration with a careful intensity and almost makes you want to hold your breath for fear of drowning. Using white, transparent, green and red hairs woven into her own threads, Magdalena creates a magnificently ethereal underwater effect.  Put this with a knit dress with blonde children built into the knit pattern, handmade plastic headwear (by Daniel of the product design team) and you get an incredibly adult collection born of her nostalgic child like inspiration.


Next was Pauline Edvall who on top of her design and pattern cutting talent is known across CSM and the LCF for her illustrations. Can one be more artistically well rounded? It is fitting that Pauline's illustrations serve as a starting point for a lot of her silhouettes and also feed into the creation of her own prints. This collection is structurally complicated with varying textures and plastics playfully inserted in unexpected places. My favourite pieces are a white jumper with Pauline's illustrations snaked around the body and a sweater that was hidden under a body warmer but almost looked like wrinkles on a pug dog and I just wanted to put it on then and there. (This sounds like I am Cruella Deville! I just mean it looked sexy and comfortable which is a hard thing to pull off!)


And then Sara Arnesen of Less is Bore! She lives up to her blogs' title as her collection is hilarious and boundary pushing and is certainly not a bore! Camera's flashed wildly as her opening pink-tastik look of upside down bra (trust me - it is difficult enough to create a bra right side up!) and skirt made of pink hair emerged. Cotton candy coloured jerseys with false nails used to mockingly support the breast. Nipple tassle's on sunglasses and swinging from a plastic mini backpack (I seriously want one - this girl always makes something I feel I have to have!) Sara completed this collection on top of her course work, garments she was asked to create for magazine Pigeons and Peacocks and a collection she was required to make as a finalist in a Swedish fashion competition hosted by the Sisters Academy. To reference Julia's rap video's - RAISE THE ROOF!!!


Creative and clever pattern master and altruistic show organiser Lisette Norrby closed the show with her sophisticated and  esoteric menswear collection. This collection is as much academic, studied and thoughtful as it is playful and forward. Inspired by Brian Bress's Undercover video art and the intricacy's of everyday household objects such as plungers (inspiration for sleeve shape!), Lisette manoeuvres fabric around the body and plays on the ways we can hide or reveal various parts of ourselves and our bodies. Rounded collars curve down and melt into the rest of the garment. Lisette manipulated imagery of household items and commonly used stitches into a deviceful and fresh pattern which she had digitally printed onto natural fabrics and hand transferred on to a nylon yellow bomber jacket and laser cut perspex brooches to use as collar accents. I am sincerely waiting for the day when Lisette starts making womenswear as well. I will be first in line!


Due to the venue change (around which the entire vision of the show production was designed...) the CSM product designers had to get their heads down and rethink things - Daniel Windfeldt, Phan Thao Dang and Pauline Richard did this, and "made it work." Astonishingly they even did it with smiles on their faces! I have a feeling this lot thrive on a challenge...

I have to mention the work of Voita Otevrel who designed the show's poster and logo, because I love it and think it is genius.

Here is some of the other coverage of the show!

Matthew Zorpas for Filep Motwary: http://www.filepmotwary.com/2011/05/matthew-zorpas-reports-fashion-for-show-the-deviant.html


  1. I love all these photos and what you've said about each designer. I can't believe Tim has a handmade loom!