Ziad Ghanam.... That's All We Have to Say....

It was a long wait in the rain to get into the Ziad Ghanam show but I can't even begin to tell you how worth the wait it was.... Perhaps it set the mood?

Mel ran off to get a good photo spot (in front of some fairly unpleasant ladies who spent the show bitterly nattering at each other about their unsatisfactory seating- life is too short ladies - get your elbows out....) and I took a standing spot with Anna Daubner of Our Fashion across from Boy George. Taking inspiration from the video game Silent Hill and the artwork of John-Henry Fuseli we were excited to see what webs would be weaved before us. 

The lights finally went down and a hunched flame haired figure lurked onto the catwalk in a long black dress with large green feathered wing like fans. The catwalk was dark, with fizzling flashes of white and the creature began to rise.. Yes, you read correctly, it started rising up in the air, reaching 10-12 feet high! Then forward it came, with wild eyes and flapping wings before retreating into the London night and leaving the show to the less vertically blessed (though no less large in backbone or personality!)

The darkly wild music changed with almost every outfit providing a fitting gothic soundtrack to go with the crazy cult couture that Ziad Ghanam is so well known for. Everyone we spied in the audience (including us!) were dancing and grinning in their seats - which is always the best sign. The story rolled along twisting tales of, among others, a young woman dark and innocent, whom you assume talks like Wednesday Adams. She grew up as the show continued until she met her match. Then came the blackest "White Wedding" you could imagine. Artist duo Paul and Nora Battenburg-Cartwright played the new husband and wife before the "night of the wedding" arrived and out danced a ballerina who tackled the whole runway and back on points, twirling, veiled in lace and chiffon.

 And so girl becomes woman (or man becomes woman or vice versa or upside down - we love it..!..) and the outfits more powerful, more flowing, more gutsy. My absolute favourite was a studded skirt, and chiffon ruffled top. The painted pale model walked halfway down the catwalk before raising their arms and wiping their face with black paint and walking on. It was gut-wrenching!

Bright colours of fuchsia, teal, royal blue and purple followed, full pheasants on silks, studs, sequins, beads, silver and gold - all on models painted so beautifully and ornately deathlike they took your breath away. Every single character down the catwalk carried with them such personality. It was lush to see a show where the models were WEARING the clothes - and loving them, and expressing themselves - instead of the clothes wearing THEM. It was refreshing to see a designer not fearful of being outshone by his models - because though they were immense the two components of the show played off of each other so well.  One fed the other until there was nothing left but carcasses and bodies and the sound of our awe.

Our hands are held up - we surrender Ziad Ghamen! Thanks so much for being you!

Links:  http://www.ziadghanem.co.uk/

The 4 frontal catwalk photo's courtesy of glamour.com

Fashion Mode Ready's us for Autumn/Winter 2011

We love Fashion Mode. The designers are extremely talented and seem like wicked fun and we love the idea of fostering such strong design talent through this great organisation. Mel also always manages to get lush photo's too which makes it even more fantastical. It just always feels like there is magic and joy in the room at their shows.


Florian Jayet

We begin with Florian Jayet, heavily inspired by science and biology and seeking to emphasise the most powerful areas of the female form.

Modern shapes and innovative padding, like leather collar pieces and quilted satin dresses worked beautifully with the headpieces which roll the hair into tubes and have metal prongs that frame the face.

Sharp shoulders and enhanced hips emulate strength and encourage confidence and his use of padding acts as a material armour against society. "Don't even think about messing with that one" they will say. Talk about a good way to get a seat on the tube. 

Actually never mind the tube! With this garb one wouldn't feel out of place approaching the Rolls Royce waiting for someone else outside Claridges, jumping in and saying "Old Street, and make it snappy!"

James Hillman

Next was smiley James Hillman with his models dripping in hot oil... Um.... Er... Phew! I mean, his inspiration was taken from the distillation process of crude oil and the importance that crude oil plays in our society.

All in Noir to represent the nighty night darkness of the oil itself he addresses the different levels of the distillation process through his variance of fabrics (Wool cashmere, leather, and the lightweight oils are represented using ripstop and wax cottons) in the solid shades of blackest black.

The tailoring was neat and sleek and I honestly forgot where I was. Passion Pit bumping out of the sound system had me bouncing and singing along like a freak with a grin on my face.

Prophetik's Jeff Garner looks on from the front row

All I needed was an espresso and some sunglasses and I could have sworn I was in Taormina Sicily watching the modern man on his way to an important meeting.

Hillman also threw in some sexy leather manbags, the kind that you buy your boyfriend because you want to keep it for yourself...

Amazing job well done!!

Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone brought the show to a close and what a way to end it! Admittedly I am a sucker for a message (my pillowcases genuinely read "Tomorrow something magical will happen" much to the horror of my more cynical friends) so I love the fact that Barone uses her work to display her beliefs about various issues. Carlotta's skin like bodysuits addressing racism were my firm favourite pieces from last season. 

She managed it again with similar leggings, however this time she addressed her protest against cruelty towards animals, mainly seals used in the fur trade, also taking inspiration from the traditional clothing of the inuit tribes who live closely with the seals.

Navy blue represented the cold sea, white for the snow and ice, beige faux fur to represent the seals and red for the blood that is shed in the slaughter. My favourite piece (apart from the leggings) was a knit dress which graduated into a hood with drawstring side seams with pom poms on the ends. 

The hair and make up was ridiculous in a good way and we genuinely didn't want it to end. 

Being from Canada, there is a huge problem with seal culling and it is something that really bothers me. Please Carlotta, tell me where I can buy your leggings and I will wear them to my homeland in protest : )

I had a really embarrassing moment at the end of the show when trying to find some spare press releases I nicked someones goody bag from the row ahead of me (some people leave them behind and I thought this was the case) - so I began rummaging through the bag ooing and aaaahing at all of the fun contents and started putting the bits into my handbag when I heard a gentleman "um excuse me, do you think I may be able to have my goody bag?" I was so caught off guard that the first thing that came out of my mouth was: "You mean all of it?" I am not kidding.... Talk about an "I carried a watermelon" moment...  

If I can live down the shame we will definitely be back again next season, to see what new fun will be in store...

Aminaka Wilmont - Primitive Tribes and Music like Flying

Turn up the base and put this on while you read.... (Seriously)  Balam Acab - See Birds. It will give you the feel of the show entitled "Totem."

Totem takes inspiration from primitive tribes and their relation to animals, spirits and deities which was strongly presented throughout this dark and ravenous collection. The show began with a song from Twilight and the models emerged with glowing yellow retina's so we felt the tribal element straight off - though we were fearful it was going to be vampires against werewolves and Bella driving us batty with indecision. However the music quickly shifted and the collection was sexy and adult.

Draped silk georgette printed in bold animal hides, feathers and patterns paired with leather strapping akin to lines on a totem pole were paired with tailored shorts and trousers, pheasant feather shoulder pieces and hardcore animal hoof shoes and boots. 

The hair was IMMENSE with neat decisive braiding. Blacks, varying greys and the colours of natures darkest creatures ruled with the brightest hues on the catwalk being the ember glowing eyes of Aminaka Wilmont's tribe.

Totem woman: Strong, individual, serene and unique with damn good taste in music.

 

Links: www.aminakawilmont.com

Jena.Theo's Wild Woman

Jena.Theo opened On|Off's presence at Mercer Studios this season, and with them they brought the clothes and the models all designed to fit the definition of "Fierce".

Now, Mercer Studios, while not being a particularly spacious venue, more than gave back to it's guests in seductive atmosphere! 

Caught out of the corners of Pandora's Thoughts eye's were the likes of Matthew Zorpas in a full on gold suit and fashion photographer Anders Brogaard. I had heard from Amelia's Magazine later that the lovely Hilary Alexander was also there furiously taking notes, but honestly the place was too crowded for us to catch a glimpse of her until Jordanna ended up sat behind her 30 minutes later at Prophetik's show!

Blue tinged lighting and a rave-like screen set the tone and the crowd on edge, while the mist in the room seemed to creep in from a nearby secluded forest (does anyone know a place like that in London?), the same place I'm sure they found the unreal creatures they sent floating down the runway, each one like a stunning harpy. 

It has been said that Jena.Theo's clothes are wearable, and it is totally true. They perfectly combine rough but comfy looking wools with soft cottons and silks, which to me just oozes the feeling of winter out of it's very stitching. It also tells a subtle romantic tale of the haunted wilderness on the edge of a dark pulsating city, as the gentle, enticing fabrics strike a harder note in blacks, greys and whites. Stark colours, worked well in their favour and was a nice juxtaposition to the rainbow colours back at the BFC with Paul Costelloe.

Without doubt, ours, and I think many others, favourite piece of the show was "the coat". Now if you happened to be at Mercer Studio's on this day at 11am, then you will know the coat I am talking about as my ears still ring from all of the camera's snapping. For those of you who weren't able to see it first hand, Jordanna describes it as not a piece of clothing, but an act. It is an act many of us perform on the darkest coldest days of winter, usually on a Sunday morning. It is the act of waking and wrapping yourself in your duvet still warm with body heat to protect yourself from the cold. Except of course in the case of this Jena.Theo number, far more structured and sexy (and without the JBF hair and morning breath!) The act we speak of was this coat:

Each pair of shoes that took to the catwalk, was the base to a look which emanated fierceness for us, and the expression was truly reflected in the clothes. These draped and flowing garments speak of a different time, and a different woman; Jena.Theo's Valkyrie woman, one that I believe Pandora's Thoughts left Mercer Studios wishing we were!

Links: Jena.Theo