Fashion Mode Ready's us for Autumn/Winter 2011

We love Fashion Mode. The designers are extremely talented and seem like wicked fun and we love the idea of fostering such strong design talent through this great organisation. Mel also always manages to get lush photo's too which makes it even more fantastical. It just always feels like there is magic and joy in the room at their shows.


Florian Jayet

We begin with Florian Jayet, heavily inspired by science and biology and seeking to emphasise the most powerful areas of the female form.

Modern shapes and innovative padding, like leather collar pieces and quilted satin dresses worked beautifully with the headpieces which roll the hair into tubes and have metal prongs that frame the face.

Sharp shoulders and enhanced hips emulate strength and encourage confidence and his use of padding acts as a material armour against society. "Don't even think about messing with that one" they will say. Talk about a good way to get a seat on the tube. 

Actually never mind the tube! With this garb one wouldn't feel out of place approaching the Rolls Royce waiting for someone else outside Claridges, jumping in and saying "Old Street, and make it snappy!"

James Hillman

Next was smiley James Hillman with his models dripping in hot oil... Um.... Er... Phew! I mean, his inspiration was taken from the distillation process of crude oil and the importance that crude oil plays in our society.

All in Noir to represent the nighty night darkness of the oil itself he addresses the different levels of the distillation process through his variance of fabrics (Wool cashmere, leather, and the lightweight oils are represented using ripstop and wax cottons) in the solid shades of blackest black.

The tailoring was neat and sleek and I honestly forgot where I was. Passion Pit bumping out of the sound system had me bouncing and singing along like a freak with a grin on my face.

Prophetik's Jeff Garner looks on from the front row

All I needed was an espresso and some sunglasses and I could have sworn I was in Taormina Sicily watching the modern man on his way to an important meeting.

Hillman also threw in some sexy leather manbags, the kind that you buy your boyfriend because you want to keep it for yourself...

Amazing job well done!!

Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone brought the show to a close and what a way to end it! Admittedly I am a sucker for a message (my pillowcases genuinely read "Tomorrow something magical will happen" much to the horror of my more cynical friends) so I love the fact that Barone uses her work to display her beliefs about various issues. Carlotta's skin like bodysuits addressing racism were my firm favourite pieces from last season. 

She managed it again with similar leggings, however this time she addressed her protest against cruelty towards animals, mainly seals used in the fur trade, also taking inspiration from the traditional clothing of the inuit tribes who live closely with the seals.

Navy blue represented the cold sea, white for the snow and ice, beige faux fur to represent the seals and red for the blood that is shed in the slaughter. My favourite piece (apart from the leggings) was a knit dress which graduated into a hood with drawstring side seams with pom poms on the ends. 

The hair and make up was ridiculous in a good way and we genuinely didn't want it to end. 

Being from Canada, there is a huge problem with seal culling and it is something that really bothers me. Please Carlotta, tell me where I can buy your leggings and I will wear them to my homeland in protest : )

I had a really embarrassing moment at the end of the show when trying to find some spare press releases I nicked someones goody bag from the row ahead of me (some people leave them behind and I thought this was the case) - so I began rummaging through the bag ooing and aaaahing at all of the fun contents and started putting the bits into my handbag when I heard a gentleman "um excuse me, do you think I may be able to have my goody bag?" I was so caught off guard that the first thing that came out of my mouth was: "You mean all of it?" I am not kidding.... Talk about an "I carried a watermelon" moment...  

If I can live down the shame we will definitely be back again next season, to see what new fun will be in store...

Fashion Mode - Ones to Watch LFW S/S 2011

Fashion Mode, the London based initiative which fosters cutting edge new design talent through bi-  annual catwalk events and PR and Marketing support converged on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout catwalk this London Fashion Week, showing that they really know how to pick ‘em and that when young and fresh design talent is nurtured and supported and allowed to be creatively unconstrained by “the business side of fashion”  – amazing things can happen.


The Ones to Watch show was running slightly behind – I guess that’s what happens when you have to organise 4 creative’s instead of one! Whilst waiting to get in, two young girls were trying to get a nice Facebook worthy photo of themselves at LFW, doing what (rather embarrassingly we all do) and holding the camera up and pouting. “Oh give me that camera!” we heard. A hatted man we had seen at various other shows ran over and grabbed the camera. The girls reviewed the photo afterwards (as again embarrassingly we all do) and the man pipes up “Uh – I was the head features editor at the Evening Standard honey, I think I know how to take a photo.. “ On that note....

Once in we spied lovely Kit Lee from Style Slicker sitting front row with her buddy Matthew Zorpas – the most fashionable male we have ever seen... as well as – randomly – that guy Nick Knowles from DIY SOS sitting with a very popular and well known man in a boiler suit (we should probably recognise him but are new to LFW....) We were seated with the grandparents of one of the models and when a woman in a very large hat sat in the front row gran said “Ugh, no one is going to be able to see past her ridiculous hat! It’s just like when people wear hats to the theatahhhh – she should be shot!” She was by far my favourite person of the whole of fashion week as when her grandson sashayed down the catwalk she stood up and clapped and whooped, smacking her husband to stand up too – it was the cutest thing I have ever seen!

Carlotta Barone opened the show with a collection titled “Wear My Skin”. Kelis bumped from the sound system, Barone’s first outfit emerged and I literally felt out of breath – this was my idea of heaven. I respect anyone who is brave enough to make a political statement with their designs and Carlotta’s inspiration was taken from her fight against racism and the plight of Africans deported to America before the 1865 civil war. The colours and tones were reflections of skin tones, light to dark with amazing second skin like bodywear printed with phrases taken from her inspiration and made of lycra or modal (but without the unsightly stitch lines you would expect from these difficult stretch fabrics). Heavy drape made from simple cottons like those from the plantations were used to mimic the garb of slaves working in the fields. Bold curved shoulders on jackets showed strength in the face of adversity. For the encore Carlotta emerged proud and glowing and we can see why. She took an issue she is passionate about and used it as her inspiration for a strong and beautifully poignant collection. On my wish list!


                               

James Hillman was next, with his sleekly tailored army of rainy day grey. I felt calmed by this collection which was chic, simple and unfussy yet a bit cheeky with drops of pastel green and hints of school boy, DooWop and feminine sheer fabrics. Inspired by the 59 Bike Club and the Teddy Boy look with slim square masculine silhouettes with oversized collars and elegant tailoring of silk chiffon, leather and jersey. My favourite pieces were a white collared shirt with a V pocket and sheer arms and back which reminded me of Baz Luhrmans Romeo and Juliet as you could see the models delicious tattoos (Perfect for those hot and muggy days driving around Verona in vintage drop top.....). Also a grey boxey man-dress - though dresses are feminine in their nature, the cut of the garment was extremely masculine and sexy, like something a modern William Wallace might don. HOT HOT HOT! James emerged with a bashful smile followed by his serious faced army of masculine men in grey. 

Elson Figueiredo. Before I get started on the clothes (which were fabulous), I have to compliment Elson on his model selection. Never have I witnessed such a precise selection and line up. Muscley testosterone oozing men perfectly book ended by two tall, elegant and beautifully androgynous (Mel who was busy taking the fab photo’s for this show turned mouthed the word to me because she knows I always forget it and confuse it with ambidextrous) men who in their touch of make-up had the entire room confused. Un-tranny like and beautiful as members of either sex – or both! We loved it. Figeuiredo took his inspiration from 19^th century European carnival workers which I find fascinating. At that time it was less £10 for pic&mix and £5 a game and more human cannonballs and freakshows! The on the move lifestyle of the carnies made for hard wearing purposeful utility clothing like tight fitting jerseys of tight rope walkers in the bright colours of the carnival, primary blues, greens and reds. Lion tamer style suits in white, navy and black, hooded rain jackets for the guys putting up the tents and the sexy ticket taker in a light blue collared shirt with perfectly fitted dark blue trousers. I LOVED this collection – this is one carnival I would be sure to attend again any day....




                           

The shows finale was Florian Jayet, who previously interned at Alexander McQueen. Jayet’s S/S 2011 collection was inspired by insects and using clothing as armour and this was so well presented in his work. Futuristic, fierce and fervent down the catwalk were Jayets ladies, commanding attention – and they had ours! Shiny metallics paired with neutral creams black and white. Sculptural dresses which exxarurate the female form and exude strength through femininity not despite it. This was Mel’s favourite collection as she was lusting after a fitted low cut skirt suit with ruched side panels on the skirt, beautifully squared shoulders and armadillo like panels over the hips. I was more partial to the nervous system print, which was like bringing the things which makes one “work on the inside" – outward. This is my blood pumping, my muscles moving, my nerves bringing feeling to all of the parts of my body and that’s why you can never take me down.... Sounds dramatic I know, but I think that’s what Florian Jayet was hoping for....

 

Links: http://www.fashionmode.co.uk/