Temperatures rise at Fashion Mode - Part 1 Carlotta Actis Barone

Pandora's Thoughts have a long and slightly sentimental history with Fashion Mode. We have been watching these three designers grow since their first LFW show for SS 2011, now nurtured into full bloom by Creative Director Andrea Abraham. So of course, it goes without saying we were filled with excitement to come back for another season of shooting the new collections.

This season we've had the pleasure of a sneak peek at Carlotta Actis Barone's collection when we were invited to shoot the Behind the scenes images at her Look Book shoot, and then enter the dragon's den by coming backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout to shoot the show preparation.
So this Fashion Week we thought we'd be watching the show as ever, grinning like doting parents at their kid's graduation, but that perhaps the goosebumps from the surprise of the collection would be gone.

We were wrong.

They were on top form once again, the concepts were flawless and the collections bigger than ever before (literally about 15 looks for each designer).

Carlotta Actis Barone...

Carlotta takes her inspiration this season from the protest against illegal prostitution. Looking at enforced prostitution vs prostitution by choice. Her in depth research spans Geishas, Victorian Brothels and French Boudoir, all of which is very apparent in her collection.

I loved the fact that given the concept has such serious and sometimes said "sombre"  connotations, it has a very distinct use of bright colours. This really shows the research of the Geisha, while also reminding us - Hello! this is a spring summer collection!

An interesting addition were silk ropes added to some garments to give shape in the right places, but also to represent being bound and restrained.

 

The existing following of Carlotta won't be disappointed to hear that her signature tights are still featuring in the collection. This season new fonts and colours give a twist to what we have previously seen from her.

The final piece, and a surprise for us as it was still in production at the time of the Look Book shoot was a wedding dress. Silk, lace and completed with a veil. A stunning piece which managed to sit perfectly, not only with the rest of her collection, but also with her concept.
The choice to put a wedding dress within a collection inspired by prostitution I initially felt was quite a brave decision, however now I think it is a great reflection of the desire she has to convey her message and make it just as important as every other part of the creative process.

For me, Carlotta's SS 11 collection is still my firm favourite, however this is just my personal taste. Whether a fan of this Italian designer or just discovering her for the first time, it is quite clear that she will be turning heads with her clothes for some time to come.

For the rest of the Fashion Mode reviews see James Hillman in Part Two and Florian Jayet and our round up in Part Three!

Temperatures rise at Fashion Mode - Part 3 Florian Jayet

Florian Jayet for me it couldn't be clearer this season will be a truly great designer. There should be a sign above his head saying "Watch out, because you won't see me coming". Each season I've found him an interesting one to watch, but this season was a shock to the system (not to mention I would wear all of it).

His new spring summer collection is based on the japanese myth of the Yūrei; ghosts of those who have been murdered and come back to seek revenge on their killer in order to be released from purgatory and reach heaven.

In addition to the fact Jordanna & I are complete suckers for all things mythological (well, Pandora's Thoughts, like that wasn't obvious...), the powerful execution of this tale was consistent in everything about it.

The collection itself, which true to the Yūrei has white flowing through it, sat well with Florian's unique tailoring, perfectly cut to encase a womanly and sleek silhouette. This white ran through into the floral pieces, so intricately made the flowers could have been picked from some far off land just the night before.

 

High waisted, accentuated shoulders, draping used to created an air of mystery and provoke a curiosity about the body underneath. Not too revealing, but dazzlingly sexy.

 

 The fierce models embodied the mythology. Lingering at the top of the catwalk before floating down it (which in those shoes could become an urban legend itself), penetrating anyone who dared make eye contact with an intensely doomed gaze.

The distressed hair and the surreal make-up only added to it with haunting eyes, bloodthirsty lips and hair from beyond the grave created by hair stylist Richard from Toni & Guy .

 

Amazing jewelry, including some ghostly feminine head pieces and a particular metal chain garter which the masochist in me lusted over immediately.

Oh, and lest I forget, the shoes, to die for (inclusive of unique carving to remind you that you have died for them!).

Florian Jayet was up there with my favourites of the week, and for me up there with some big names. He has here a collection of the perfect balance between the darkness and light in a woman, and for this I will be looking out for him gracing the BFC at some point in the future.

"Aw shucks"

And so....

The collections were yet another step forward for Fashion Mode as whole, and showcased new skills and a progression of ideas from all three designers.

And if you don't believe me, you can ask the few hundred other people, who crammed themselves into the Freemasons Hall, despite the lack of air conditioning and people melting from the heat around their feet, just to get a glimpse of the cuff of a shirt or the trim of a dress.

These three bring it with them every single time - the spectacle of an atmospheric Lagerfeld-esque extraordinaire! And it gives me a shiver down my spine in anticipation of great things to come.

Temperatures Rise at Fashion Mode - Part 2 James Hillman

We wanted to separate out Fashion Mode's designers this season. With each designer presenting an extensive 15 piece collection, much larger than before, the least we could do was give each one their own piece of wall space!

So next up...James Hillman.

Every season, even if we got nothing else (which isn't the case here but still) we'd always have the 10 head turning minutes of James Hillman's fabulous choice in damn fine male models. But apparently I'm supposed to be talking about the clothes - ooops!

James' collection this season sprung from space and in particular black holes. 

With some of his garments an interpretation of different stages of exploding stars, the colour palette contrasts drastically to his all black aw 11 collection, where here we see blacks interspersed with purples, ivories, pinks and blues.

A great deal of curved cuts and double buttons have appeared on his formal shirts, not to mention his very interesting and modern take on formal wear in general. Might we see a potential match in Carlotta's wedding dress and James' suit...?

  

 

True to his style, his formal shorts are still a big hit, as well as his take on trench coats and jackets (ever prepared for the english Spring/Summer rainy days).

More so this season, he seems to have found quite a hand for more casual fitted tops. Perhaps a little too fitted for some women in the audience, but I'm sure they'd say just right (standing up and leaning over the row in front to take a photo might tell a different story - right Funda?)

 

I really feel that Mr Hillman is pushing himself to perfect his craft by trying new techniques each season, so that each season he produces a collection not only representative of himself, but also which truly reflects his technical abilities as a designer by the time and effort that has clearly gone into the learning process.

We have definitely seen that he has tested himself this season with difficult tailoring and stitching and as ever it makes me excited to see what he will do next.

Backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

The longer Jordanna & I pour our hearts into Pandora's Thoughts, slowly but surely we are seeing a number of "firsts" arise.

This season was no exception as we were kindly invited backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on Saturday 18th September for Fashion Mode's manic pre show preparations!

These guys had the toughest job of being allocated the same space which one designer would get, to fit in the models, make up artists and hairs stylists (not to mention clothes racks, pr people and hungry photographers) of three designers!

The show as you can see came off effortlessly, but just in case you thought they didn't work their asses off for it, here is what was going on beforehand...

WARNING!!! IF YOU DON'T LIKE THE MAGIC OF A CATWALK SHOW TO INCLUDE A "SPOILER ALERT" LOOK AWAY NOW.